Friday, February 25, 2011

Basing Tutorial - 40k Urban

Hey Folks!

This will be the first part in a series of basing tutorials for 40k, fantasy and warmachine. These techniques can be used for any number of game systems as well.This first one will be for an urban 40k style.

So where to begin. I guess it would start with a list of what you will need.

1) White PVA glue. I personally use Elmer's Glue All. Its the same brand as the school glue for kids but is actually pretty tough and water doesn't effect it to much once its dry.

2) Basing material such as gravel or sad. I personally use Gale Force 9s Urban rubble set:

I rarely use the "concrete rubble but I do use the fine grit and the course grit heavily. Both are excellent basing materials and for only 11 dollars for the set of 4 containers of material, it lasts a long time. More then enough for an entire 1850 40k army.

3) Bases - Duh! Hehe.

4) An old brush used for drybrushing. This is the brush you will need to paint on the glue to the areas you want to have the material.

5) Green Stuff - Or any other modeling putty. This will be used for making hills as well as leaving the spots for the models feet.

5) Any extra Bitz such as tank parts, skulls, heads, helmets, or anything of the like.

6) Tooth picks - These can be cut down for shell casings.

Ok now that we have the list of stuff you will need, lets get to making some bases!


Step 1 - I start with 2 blobs of GS on the bottom of the models feet to be based. I then put the model onto the base and allow the GS to dry overnight.

Step 2 - The next day I remove the model, leaving the GS foot prints behind. I then glue on any bitz that I want buried in the rubble.

Step 3 - After that I use the brush to paint the glue onto the base around the bitz and foot prints. I start by sprinkling some of the course stuff onto it sparingly, then over that pour on the fine grit. Sand could also be used in this step.

Step 4 - Normally I would undercoat the bases with a black primer then hand brush on Codex Grey. But since it was raining, I had to prime by hand with Adeptus Battlegrey then over that painted the codex grey.

Step 5 - I then came in with Boltgun Metal for the metal parts, A mix of Enchanted Blue and Codex Grey for the buried roof tile, Tauspet Ochre for the bricks and Blood Red for the marine helmet.

Step 6 - Once that's done I drybrush a light coat of Fortress Grey over the rubble. I avoid hitting any area I've already painted. I guess I could do this step before painting the details but eh, I just never have.

Step 7 - I give the entire base a wash of Devlan Mud.

Step 8 - (1 base is MIA, it fell behind the desk and I didn't feel like moving everything to get it right away) Once the wash is dry, I drybrush very lightly a mix of fortress grey and codex grey over the rubble. I thin highlight all the random bitz and such with the original color used.

Step 9 - I give it a light brushing with some MIG Pigments. I use a mix of 80/20 Industrial Dirt/Old Rust. It gives the base that dusty and warn look.

I then glue on the completed model and get ready for flocking and "bushing" . (I will cover all that in the next installment! Which will be posted tonight!)

Adding a bit of detail like Static Grass, Turf and extra goodies you can end up with bases like this like this:


  1. And a good looking base it is too. Basing is an element of the hobby that's really easy to improve your skills with and it can have great results.

    Even a moderately-well painted model starts looking really good if you get the base standard up.

  2. Thanks so much for this! I'm the guy who asked for a series on basing before (except on a different profile - whoops!).

    Looking forward to the next installment - every step I can take away from my "sand + static grass = good" past is a positive one. =)

  3. bleach bone as your final highlight makes the base stand out even more. Whatever color I put down on a base, I always highlight lightly with Bleach Bone and even white just to give the base some punch. larger stones work great that way.

  4. GS footprints! As someone that paints in pieces, that seems like a great way to get basing done while still having a nice, clear spot for feet to go. Can't wait to try it out!

  5. Any hope on a cool Tyranid basing tutorial?

  6. @Built-in - Yup I sure can. Ill try and get one up for next week :)